02 April 2011

Blog renos



Whew... It's taken a lot longer than I expected it would, but I finally have my brand new home for my blog!  That means, http://leave-room-for-dessert.blogspot.com/ will no longer be updated.  Instead, www.alwaysleaveroomfordessert.com has a brand new look and some new features, and will be the permanent home for this blog.



I want to thank you all for you readership and support (and patience) throughout my first year and a bit on the web, and sincerely hope you will all come along for the ride at the new site!

Sweet things are in store for us all!

Happy Baking!

Julia

07 March 2011

Florentines Cookies & Panna Cotta

florentine cookies and coquelicot panna cotta



The February 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Mallory from A Sofa in the Kitchen. She chose to challenge everyone to make Panna Cotta from a Giada De Laurentiis recipe and Nestle Florentine Cookies.

A true cookies and cream combination!  Silky panna cotta, served alongside a chewy oatmeal sandwich cookie filled with rich chocolate.... sounds like the perfect coffee break indulgence to me.  I was immediately curious about Giada's panna cotta recipe, and if it was closer to the thick, velvety strawberry panna cotta hubby and I tasted in Sausalito, or like the thinner, wobbly nectarine-basil panna cotta I made after we got home.  One thing I knew for sure, it wouldn't take long to make.  As for the florentines, I was surprised to see they were what I have always known as Lace Cookies, something completely different from the thicker, caramel and almond treat with a shortbread base, dipped in chocolate.  Regardless, it's a new recipe to me, as I've never made either one - and you know how I like to try new recipes!

Coquelicot Panna Cotta with an extra drizzle of syrup


I whipped up the panna cotta, knowing full well that it needs hours of chill-and-set time in the fridge before it can be served, whereas cookies are always better when they're warm and fresh.  Given the fact that winter still has a vice-grip hold on this part of the world, fresh nectarines were out of the question, so I dipped into my stash of edible souvenirs that I managed to fit in my luggage from my recent trip through Europe; chocolate, chocolate, pistachio nougatine, french butter, more chocolate, french mustards, bacon flavoured potato chips for hubby, violet sugar, dutch caramels.... bingo!  The bottle of sirop de coquelicot that I picked up in a gourmet market in Dublin!  When I purchased this syrup, the translator part of my brain was on strike after being in so many countries, each with a different language, so I couldn't immediately remember what coquelicot was (it's French for poppy).  I bought it anyway, knowing I'd be able to find a use for it.  When I returned home and Shannon & her hubby came over one evening, she and I were poking through these treats, and started opening bottles, smelling and tasting the latest additions to my pantry.  She cracked the seal on this small bottle of syrup, inhaled deeply and her eyes opened wide, "Ooh, smell this! It smells like cream soda!"  I took a whiff, and could almost feel the carbonated bubbles of sweet pink cream soda on my tongue.  We pondered the possibility that cream soda was in fact poppy soda, but we were wrong - turns out cream soda is actually vanilla flavoured, though poppy seems far more accurate to me.  Faced with still-unflavoured panna cotta for dessert, I found the syrup and knew the pairing would be perfect.  After all, if it smells and tastes like cream soda, it must taste good with cream!

sirop de coquelicot...  poppies are delicous!
I added about a tablespoon of poppy syrup to the warm cream base and tasted... nothing.  Another tablespoon and then another.... before I knew it, I had poured in almost the entire bottle (don't panic - it was a pretty small bottle), but the flavour was finally coming through.  That said, this recipe makes an enormous amount of panna cotta, a half-batch would have been more than enough.  I poured the custard into cups and put them in the fridge to chill for a few hours and got to work on the cookies.

florentine batter - so simple!

Having never made florentines before, I didn't know how labour-intensive they might be, but as I read the recipe through, I was surprised at how little work they seemed to be.  I read the recipe through a couple more times, just to be sure I hadn't missed anything, and got started.  In about 5 minutes, I had the first batch of cookies in the oven and immediately sent a text to my sister, who has very little patience for complicated or time-consuming recipes.  She'd love these - there weren't even very many dirty dishes, just one saucepan and a cookie sheet or two.  I took a peek at the oven to see how the cookies were doing and found the only problem I had with this recipe.... if you try to bake 12 cookies on one sheet like you do with most cookies, you actually end up with one very large, rectangular florentine.  Ok, lesson learned.  When I took them out of the oven, I let them cool slightly and then cut them into cookie-sized squares before they set up too much.  For the next batch, I put only 6 spoons of batter on the cookie sheet, and they turned out perfectly.  After that, it was just a matter of melting some dark chocolate and spreading a thin layer on the underside of half the cookies.  Topped with a second cookie and allowed to cool, I had a stack of beautiful florentines in no time.

almost ready.....

sweet, chewy and chocolatey
As for the recipes, my only advice would be to cut the panna cotta recipe in half, unless you have at least 12 people to serve, and portion out smaller amounts of the cookie batter than you normally would with other cookies.  Using the same #70 disher I usually use for cookies turned out florentines that were a full 4-inches in diameter, but these cookies are so rich that one cookie is more than enough to tackle a sweets-craving.  Less is more in this case.

There you have it.  I am attaching the recipes as posted by our host Mallory so you can give these both a try.

Oh, and on a final note, this still isn't the velvety panna cotta of Sausalito... much closer to the wobbly version I made before, but it still tastes divine!

Happy baking!
xox

Giada's Vanilla Panna Cotta

Ingredients
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
1 tablespoon (one packet) (15 ml) (7 gm) (¼ oz) unflavored powdered gelatin
3 cups (720 ml) whipping cream (30+% butterfat)
1/3 cup (80 ml) honey
1 tablespoon (15 ml) (15 gm) (½ oz) granulated sugar
pinch of salt

Directions:
  1. Pour the milk into a bowl or pot and sprinkle gelatin evenly and thinly over the milk (make sure the bowl/pot is cold by placing the bowl/pot in the refrigerator for a few minutes before you start making the Panna Cotta). Let stand for 5 minutes to soften the gelatin.
  2. Pour the milk into the saucepan/pot and place over medium heat on the stove. Heat this mixture until it is hot, but not boiling, about five minutes. (I whisk it a few times at this stage).
  3. Next, add the cream, honey, sugar, and pinch of salt. Making sure the mixture doesn't boil, continue to heat and stir occasionally until the sugar and honey have dissolved 5-7 minutes.
  4. Remove from heat, allow it to sit for a few minutes to cool slightly. Then pour into the glass or ramekin.
  5. Refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight. Add garnishes and serve.

Hope you love it!

Nestle Florentine Cookies

Recipe from the cookbook “Nestle Classic Recipes”, and their website.

Ingredients:
2/3 cup (160 ml) (150 gm) (5.3 oz) unsalted butter
2 cups (480 ml) (160 gm) (5 2/3 oz) quick oats
1 cup (240 ml) (230 gm) (8 oz) granulated sugar
2/3 cup (160 ml) (95 gm) (3⅓ oz) plain (all purpose) flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) dark corn syrup
1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk
1 tsp (5 ml) vanilla extract
pinch of salt
1½ cups (360 ml) (250 gm) (9 oz) dark or milk chocolate

Directions:
Preheat oven to moderately hot 375°F (190°C) (gas mark 5). Prepare your baking sheet with silpat or parchment paper.
  1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan, then remove from the heat.
  2. To the melted butter add oats, sugar, flour, corn syrup, milk, vanilla, and salt. Mix well. Drop a tablespoon full, three inches (75 mm) apart, onto your prepared baking sheet. Flatten slightly with the back of your tablespoon, or use a spatula.
  3. Bake in preheated oven for 6-8 minutes, until cookies are golden brown. Cool completely on the baking sheets.
  4. While the cookies are cooling melt your chocolate until smooth either in the microwave (1 1/2 minutes), or stovetop (in a double boiler, or a bowl that fits atop a saucepan filled with a bit of water, being sure the water doesn't touch the bottom of the bowl).
  5. Peel the cookies from the silpat or parchment and place face down on a wire rack set over a sheet of wax/parchment paper (to keep counters clean).
  6. Spread a tablespoon of chocolate on the bottom/flat side of your cookie, sandwiching another (flat end) cookie atop the chocolate.
This recipe will make about 2 1/2 - 3 dozen sandwiched Florentine cookies. You can also choose not to sandwich yours, in which case, drizzle the tops with chocolate (over your wax paper).

Eating my way across Europe, part II

Café Norden's Caramel Latte

As you'd expect, when you visit so many great countries, you get exposed to a lot of really great food, and this trip was no exception.  I found a fabulous and super sexy resto-café in Copenhagen, called Café Norden, that serves a killer mushroom pasta with grilled chicken, or, if you're only in the need of a hot drink to warm you up, sit back in one of their pillow-lined window banquettes and enjoy a caramel latte that had me drooling while I watched them make it... thick, homemade caramel, smeared around the inside of a tall glass mug, a shot of espresso, topped off with some frothy steamed milk and served with a couple of delicious chocolate almond cookies.... it's the perfect way to warm up if the wind has gotten to you.  If you ever find yourself in Copenhagen, I highly recommend you stop in at Café Norden.

Dutch Stroopwafel 
Delft was where I finally tasted my first stroopwafel, a thin, crisp waffel, halved and then glued back together with a cinnamon-caramel syrup.  I have seen these for sale in gourmet markets locally, but my friend Nicolette, who was born in the Netherlands, says that the ones here just don't taste the same, so I decided it was better to wait for the real deal.  What I didn't know, until I tasted one, was that there was cinnamon in the syrup, which gives it a unique and pleasant flavour that I wasn't expecting.  I also learned that these are best served fresh and warm, when the syrup is nice and gooey, and that a small stroopwafel is more than enough of a sugar-buzz for the average adult.

les gaufres des Liége.... pure heaven!
Belgium - home of the Belgian Waffle.  Naturally I had to try a gaufres liégeois, especially when my chocoholic friend Kerrin said that she loved these even more than she loves chocolate.  Whoa - that's really saying something.  Luckily, gaufre vendors are not hard to find.  The first one I tried was au naturel and fresh from the iron - so hot in fact, that I had to keep my gloves on to keep from burning myself.  Ohhhhh myyyyy..... I knew immediately why Kerrin says she loves these so much.  This is unlike any waffle, Belgian or otherwise, that I have ever had.  For those of you who only know waffles from breakfast-all-day diners, you are seriously missing out.  The most noticeable difference is the large pieces of pearl-sugar strewn throughout the waffle.  When the waffle is baking on the iron, these chunks of sugar melt and caramelize and create... magic.  While savouring each bite, I was admiring the texture and crumb of this decadent treat, and that's when I noticed the second difference; these had to be made with yeast!  The food-geek in me noticed that the crumb was more similar to that of a dinner roll than it was to the typical breakfast waffle I'm familiar with.  Sure enough, one mention of this to Kerrin and she immediately sent me this link to a recipe.  Bingo!  I know what I'm making when I get back to my waffle iron!  

the crumb texture of gaufres liégeois - you don't get that crumb without yeast

Many vendors also offer a variety of toppings for their gaufres, but, having tasted them on their own, I feel it would be a crime to hide these babies under a mound of whipped cream and chocolate (I can't believe I'm saying it either), though judging by the crowds, scarfing them down on the street, I might be alone in that thinking.  Ironically, I also saw gaufres de Liége being sold at many places in Florence, Italy - which is how I learned that these are only good when they are fresh and warm.  My craving suckered me into buying what had to be 3-day old waffles, re-heated in a microwave... lesson learned!  Let's just say that the pigeons in Florence aren't quite as discerning as I am (Kerrin: ahem... told ya so)

Pierre Marcolini in Brussels

Besides waffles, Belgium is most often associated with chocolates, and Brussels has more than it's fair share of chocolateries.  Sadly, not all of them are worthy of mention - too many chocolate shops have popped up in the tourist zones, cashing in on the action by selling what, in my books, equates to overly sweet brown wax, completely lacking in chocolate flavour.  However, true chocoholics need not worry - there are a number of shops that feature high-quality, gourmet chocolate creations; Pierre Marcolini, Wittamer, Neuhaus and Mary Chocolatier, to name a few.  I spent my fair share of € in these shops, selecting a passionfruit caramel here, a pistachio nougatine there, walnut marzipans, gianduja truffles... decadently dark and chocolatey morsels drawing me in from display counters.  While Brussels wasn't my favourite city among the twelve I visited, it has a lot to offer the chocolate-loving traveler.


Mary Chocolatier
Nantes, in the Loire region of France, a charming and vibrant city filled with ancient cathedrals alongside imaginatively modern buildings, and home to my friend and fellow food blogger Jamie of Life's A Feast.     It was a great treat to see Jamie and have a "girl's day out" of window shopping, good conversation, and getting to know this beautiful city.  As Jamie's birthday was just a couple of days away, we had an additional excuse to go out for a nice lunch to a restaurant that she and her husband enjoy going to.   Pizzeria Pinocchio is a quaint little place that served me the best pizza I have ever eaten in my life.  Thin, crispy crust, baked in a traditional wood-fired oven, with flavourful toppings... it was pizza perfection.  After lunch, we did some window shopping in a few of Nantes' fantastic kitchenware shops, checked out macarons at a local pâtisserie and bought a few kouign amanns to sample - a first for both of us (sorry folks - I dropped the ball, so no pictures).  I only wish I had known a bit more about these caramelized butter and pastry cakes before we had bought them - then we'd have known that they should be heated up and served warm, rather than cold like we had them.  Not only were they very sweet, but they were extremely sticky & chewy - almost to the point we feared we'd each lose some teeth!  Now that I've learned where we went wrong, I can imagine how decadent these traditional Breton cakes would be, served fresh from the oven.

Nantes - ancient and modern side by side

After a visit to her gorgeous apartment, and getting some much needed puppy love from their Boston Terrier, Marty, I finally met her charming husband, JP, and the three of us headed out for a wonderful dinner.  The plat du jour was a fantastic calamari dish unlike anything I have ever had - it was tender and so flavourful, and served as you would a pasta, tossed in a delicate sauce.  Great food, great wine and great conversation with two really great people... it was a perfect evening and just what I needed after 10 days of traveling alone.  The one thing I hadn't foreseen about my trip, was how much I would miss good conversation - something that consists of more than ordering dinner or checking-in at a hotel.  With our stomachs very full from dinner, Jamie & JP walked me back to my hotel and we said our good-byes and parted ways... for now at least, as I get to see Jamie again in a few months at From Plate to Page in Germany!!

The next morning, the pace of my trip thus far was staring to take it's toll on me.  I felt tired and achy all over, and I wanted nothing more than a couple more hours to snooze in bed, but I had a train to catch - one of the few I had booked in advance.  After trying to soothe my muscles with a hot shower, I found myself in one of the few hotel rooms on my trip that didn't have a hair dryer.  Ugh.  Fine.  I crammed a hat on my wet hair and headed off to the station to catch my train back to Paris.  As it turns out, most major train routes in France seem to pass through the City of Lights, and when I changed trains in Paris I would be departing from a different station than I arrived at.  Well, darn.  If you didn't know this already, Paris happens to be my favourite city in the whole world, so of course I took the opportunity to spend the night here before heading off to my next destination.  When I arrived at gare Montparnasse, with my wet-hair-hat-head, I was welcomed by the most brilliant business idea ever - The Beauty Bubble!  Let's face it, everyone has, at some point in their life, arrived after a long day of travel feeling less than stunning, and the French have come up with the perfect solution.  For just €10, you can get a haircut or blowdry and style in about 10-15 minutes, and then be on your way feeling like a million bucks.  Well, I whipped my hat off and plopped myself down in that chair faster than you can imagine, and 10 minutes later, left with my sleek and freshly styled do with a spring in my step.

Beauty Bubble at Gare Montparnasse
One short metro-ride to my hotel to drop off my bags and I found I had the energy to go for a stroll and find a place for dinner.  Now, in Paris, you don't have to wander far to find a café, so I only went a block or two before I found myself with dozens of choices at hand.  Seeing places I've eaten at before, and some I hadn't, I decided on the latter, and grabbed at table at Les Éditeurs.  With it's beautiful, cozy decor and a relaxing vibe, I knew I'd made the right choice.  I ordered the risotto champignons and was absolutely blown away.  Of all my trips to Paris, I think this was the best meal I've ever eaten there.  It was incredibly creamy - almost like eating a savoury rice pudding - and so flavourful.... I was in heaven.  And on top of all that, my waiter was downright cheery and even asked how I was enjoying my meal - something that doesn't typically happen in France.  While I've never really experienced the "rude" French reputation the nation has been saddled with (with the exception of one particularly snooty shop owner in le Marais), I've always found French waiters are usually polite and efficient, and damn good at their jobs - a completely different breed from the saccharine-sweet and bubbly wait staff you often get in North America.  I stayed for a while, basking in the glow of a truly divine meal, ordered a coffee to follow my dessert of ananas gratinée (in a word: decadent!), before slowly wandering back to hotel for some sleep.  After all, I had an early train to Zurich to catch in the morning!

les Éditeurs risotto champignons

For the rest, you'll just have to wait for Part III!
(I'm such a tease!)

16 February 2011

Riding the Rails In Europe - or 8 reasons Trains beat Planes any day.

I'm back!  I've returned to the land of snow and ice and slush, from an incredible 24 days in Europe.  My Darling Hubby, knowing how much I hate our winters, sent me off to do some "research" abroad for what is typically the worst part of said winter (I know! In my opinion, he has a free pass for Valentine's Day, anniversaries, and birthdays and any other special events for the next year or so).  The only downside to this amazing trip was that he had to stay home and work, so I was all on my own.  We love traveling together and this trip I really missed being able to share all of the sights, smells and experiences with him - but not for too long - now I'll get to show him my favourite places when we return there, together, to start our new life.
24 days
12 cities
8 languages
7 countries
5 currencies
2702 photos
The Itinerary... which looks like sheer insanity thanks to Google Maps

Just where did I go?  Well, as my sister pointed out, it was a VERY ambitious itinerary.  Not that I didn't agree, but I wasn't really prepared for how exhausting it can be to pack up and change cities every 36 hours - though I sense I'm not getting a lot of sympathy here, am I?  In truth, trying to decide where to go was the hardest part of the whole trip. Once there, I adapted well and quickly became extremely adept at getting ready each morning while disturbing as little as possible in my suitcase, so as to avoid completely re-packing each time I moved on.  Eurail Pass in hand, was my itinerary:

Copenhagen, Denmark
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Delft, Netherlands
Brussels, Belgium
Paris, France (had to change trains enroute to Nantes.... darn)
Nantes, France
Paris, France again (same reason, enroute to Zurich, darn)
Zurich, Switzerland
Dijon, France 
Florence, Italy
Bologna, Italy
Dublin, Ireland
Copenhagen, Denmark again, in order to fly home
Malmo, Sweden (unplanned day trip-
because with one day left in my trip, why not squeeze in just one more country and city?)



The entire trip, aside from the jaunt to Ireland and back to Denmark, was taken on the train.  Train travel, in my opinion, is a million times better than flying, and I have at least eight points, backing my argument:
    Time: With the train, you can buy your ticket 10 minutes before your train departs, and still get on said train.  You don't lose the 2+ before your trip, just checking in and whatnot before you even board. 

    Cost: Even with dirt-cheap airfares available with carriers like RyanAir, train travel is quite inexpensive - and the price doesn't magically increase 1000% if you choose to buy your ticket 10 minutes before your departure.

    Comfort: Train seats are comfy, clean and almost always have
    Big & comfy, complete with footrest
     more legroom than you can get on any plane (flying economy at least).  Also, you can keep your tray table down for as long as you want, keep your cell phone turned on, and even keep your electronic devices (laptop, iPod, iPad, whatever) going for the entire journey.  No one cares what kind of headphones you are wearing, or how long you keep them in.  That's your business, no one else's.

    Freedom: While food & beverages are not available on all trains, they are available on most - whether in the form of a café car, or actual food service at your seat if you're sitting in first class.  However, on every train, you have the freedom to bring along snacks and drinks of your own choosing, be it pastries from a decadent pâtisserie, regional cheeses from your last locale or a picnic lunch with a full 1 litre bottle of water, a bottle of wine, or a split of champagne - try doing that on a plane!  Not to mention the fact that you can crack open that picnic lunch or split of champagne any time you want, no need to wait for a flight attendant to bring your dried out "chicken or beef" meal when the flight schedule says you should be fed, whether you're hungry or not.  Quite simply, you can eat and drink what you want when you want on a train.

    Luggage: This is a big one with me.  Unlike flying, when you travel by train, your luggage is your problem and no one else's.  No one gives a crap how heavy your bags are (except you, since you're the only one carrying them), nor do they care exactly where your nail file or toothpaste are or if they're in a clear plastic bag.  Oh, and if you feel like taking along a full size, 250ml bottle of shampoo, go nuts - it can go in the very same bag that sits within {gasp} arms-reach of you during your journey.  Added bonus - when you get to your destination, you don't waste another 20-30 minutes waiting for your luggage to (hopefully) arrive, bruised and battered, possibly having been opened and "inspected" by god-knows-who.  The train traveler is long-gone, suitcase in hand, and already checking out the sights, while the flier elbows their way through the crowd, craning their neck to see if their bag has finally come down the chute, praying to the luggage gods that their suitcase is even on the right flight.  When your suitcase is carried onto the train by you, it's your job to take it with you when you arrive.

    Pack light or heavy - you decide.  It's no one's backache but yours!
    Nickles and Dimes: Yes, there are different prices for a second class rail ticket versus first class, but that's about it.  There's no surcharge for selecting where the seat you have already paid for will be, pre-purchasing mediocre meals, fee for a blanket or pillow, cost for in-flight movies, and most importantly, there is NO fee for your luggage, no matter how much it weighs or how many pieces you choose to take with you.  You will not be nickled and dimed to death riding the rails.

    Riding the rails in Switzerland
    Time (even more): Sure, most flights are shorter than the same journey would be on the rails, however, on top of being able to spend those last 2 hours watching the sunset in Florence instead of being x-rayed and felt up by airport security, when your train arrives at your destination, you really are AT your destination.  Not a single person I know of, actually wants to explore the area around Charles De Gaulle Airport... they flew to Paris to see the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower.  Too bad, they have to still catch that 20+ minute (and €50) taxi into central Paris before they can start enjoying their trip.  Train travellers go from city centre to city centre.  Step off the train in Paris and you are actually in Paris.

    The View: Take a train during daylight hours, and while going from A to B, you can sit back and stare out the enormous picture window and enjoy the beautiful scenery.  Who knows, maybe something catches your eye enough that makes you get off at the next town and explore a bit before continuing on to your destination.  A stunning view of a bridge and a peek of Bern, Switzerland has me wanting to go back there now and explore.  I would never have seen that from a plane.

    Are there some drawbacks to train travel?  Yes, there are.  It is said that there is a thief on every train, so you should never leave your belongings unattended.  So, what about all that luggage I brought along on my trip?  Well, if it doesn't fit near my seat, I can leave it in a luggage rack near the doors, and I can secure it to that same rack with my $16 retractable cable lock.  Now, I can relax and know that my stuff is safe, or at the very least, that there is an easier target for said thief.  Also, there is no entertainment system, so even if you wanted to pay $5 to watch a movie during your trip, you can't unless you have one with you on an iPad, iPod, laptop, portable dvd player, etc. That's it.  Those are the drawbacks that I can think of.

    For the food highlights of my trip, stay tuned for Part II.....

    Zürich Station

    04 February 2011

    La biscuit jaconde imprime

    First, please allow me to apologise for the delay in posting, but for the last few weeks I have been traveling through Europe, and posting from the the road is not without it's challenges.... I know, feel bad for me, okay? (PS it's due to these challenges that there are no photos with this post, a situation I am trying to correct)
    Jacode Entremets.. not perfect, but pretty good for my first try!

    The January 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Astheroshe of the blog accro. She chose to challenge everyone to make a Biscuit Joconde Imprime to wrap around an Entremets dessert.

    When I saw the challenge for this month's Daring Bakers, I was at the same time both excited and terrified.  I first joined the group so that I could learn new skills and recipes that I had never tried.  For the most part, that's exactly what it's done for me - aside from the odd one here and there.  But this challenge, to make an entremets complete with a biscuit jaconde.  Well, let's just say that this seemed to be way beyond my range of skills.  Like, way, WAY beyond...


    One of my recent cookbook acquisitions is a book that I found in Paris a couple of years ago; La Pâtisserie de Pierre Hermé.  It is a large, beautiful book that details many of Pierre's creations from the Fauchon days - long before he had his own shops.  Like most cookbooks (the good ones at least), it has stunning pictures of the dessert, but then it goes deeper.  In this book, Pierre also has illustrations detailing the actual construction of the dessert, as well as every single step you will need to do to create the gorgeous finished product (or something close to it).  And, he offers all of this in both Français and English.  When I first found this book at Mora, a great little cookware supply shop near les Halles, I fawned over it and carried it around with me while I perused the rest of the store.  You see,  at almost $200 CAD, it was just a tad over my cookbook budget.  But it was so amazing and so pretty, and it held all of Pierre's secrets, I couldn't just put it down and walk away.  Nor could I justify spending that much money on a cookbook.  In then end, I reluctantly put it back on the shelf and left the store without it.  I never forgot about that book, and from time to time, would search the internet for a copy of it.  I was able to find plenty of copies of the French/German version, as well as the French/Japanese version, but the French/English copy always eluded me until I recently received it as a birthday gift from my brother-in-law and his wife (assisted by friends who were visiting Paris).  Now, with this month's DB Challenge, I had my chance to really put it to use!

    Immediately, but not surprisingly, I learned a couple of things about la biscuit jaconde; that it's important to prep your silpat sheet so the biscuit does not stick like mine did, and that this is not a dessert that can be made in a hurry.  To properly make this dessert, you need time, and planning.  I started in the morning and served it that evening for dessert, and I can tell you, it definitely needed more time to properly set.  While it looked pretty spectacular (especially for my first and somewhat hurried attempt), and it tasted fabulous, as soon as we cut into the entremet, it became nothing more than a tasty mess.  Another piece of advice I have for any of you brave enough to give this dessert a try: make only a half- or even quarter-recipe for the jaconde pattern.  I ended up with a ridiculous amount left over, and unless you plan on making a whole bunch of these, it's an awful waste.

    The inspiration for the entremet came from a trip to the grocery store.  I found a jar of Peach-Passionfruit Curd that I had never seen or tasted before.  I picked up a jar of that, some canned peaches (since fresh ones are long out of season), and some cream for a mousse.  Using La Pâstisserie de Pierre Hermé for inspiration, and the recipes that Astheroshe gave us for the biscuit jaconde, I was able to create a dessert that tasted fabulous and was a huge hit with our friends at dinner.  Next time I attempt this dessert, however, I will definitely give myself an extra day for proper chilling and setting, so the dessert can turn out as anticipated, and hold up to a knife.



    Below is the recipe and instructions, as posted by Astheroshe for this challenge:


    Joconde Sponge

    YIELD: Two ½ size sheet pans or a 13” x 18” (33 x 46 cm) jelly roll pan

    Ingredients:
    ¾ cup/ 180 ml/ 3oz/ 85g almond flour/meal - *You can also use hazelnut flour, just omit the butter
    ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons/ 150 ml/ 2⅔ oz/ 75g confectioners' (icing) sugar
    ¼ cup/ 60 ml/ 1 oz/ 25g cake flour *See note below
    3 large eggs - about 5⅓ oz/ 150g
    3 large egg whites - about 3 oz/ 90g
    2½ teaspoons/ 12½ ml/ ⅓ oz/ 10g white granulated sugar or superfine (caster) sugar
    2 tablespoons/ 30 ml/ 1oz / 30g unsalted butter, melted

    *Note: How to make cake flour: http://www.joythebaker.com/blog/2009/09/how-to-make-cake-flour/

    Directions:

    In a clean mixing bowl whip the egg whites and white granulated sugar to firm, glossy peeks. Reserve in a separate clean bowl to use later.
    Sift almond flour, confectioner’s sugar, cake flour. (This can be done into your dirty egg white bowl)
    On medium speed, add the eggs a little at a time. Mix well after each addition. Mix until smooth and light. (If using a stand mixer use blade attachment. If hand held a whisk attachment is fine, or by hand. )
    Fold in one third reserved whipped egg whites to almond mixture to lighten the batter. Fold in remaining whipped egg whites. Do not over mix.
    Fold in melted butter.
    Reserve batter to be used later.
    Patterned Joconde-Décor Paste

    YIELD: Two ½ size sheet pans or a 13” x 18” (33 x 46 cm) jelly roll pan

    Ingredients
    14 tablespoons/ 210ml/ 7oz/ 200g unsalted butter, softened
    1½ cups plus1½ tablespoons/ 385ml/ 7oz/ 200g Confectioners' (icing) sugar
    7 large egg whites - about 7 oz / 200g
    1¾ cup/ 420ml/ 7¾ oz/ 220g cake flour
    Food coloring gel, paste or liquid

    COCOA Décor Paste Variation: Reduce cake flour to 6 oz / 170g. Add 2 oz/ 60 g cocoa powder. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together before adding to creamed mixture.

    Directions:
    Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy (use stand mixer with blade, hand held mixer, or by hand)
    Gradually add egg whites. Beat continuously.
    Fold in sifted flour.
    Tint batter with coloring to desired color, if not making cocoa variation.
    Preparing the Joconde- How to make the pattern:

    Spread a thin even layer of décor paste approximately 1/4 inch (5 millimeter) thick onto silicone baking mat with a spatula, or flat knife. Place mat on an upside down baking sheet. The upside down sheet makes spreading easier with no lip from the pan.
    Pattern the décor paste – Here is where you can be creative. Make horizontal /vertical lines (you can use a knife, spatula, cake/pastry comb). Squiggles with your fingers, zig zags, wood grains. Be creative whatever you have at home to make a design can be used. OR use a piping bag. Pipe letters, or polka dots, or a piped design. If you do not have a piping bag. Fill a ziplock bag and snip off corner for a homemade version of one.


    Slide the baking sheet with paste into the freezer. Freeze hard. Approx 15 minutes.

    Remove from freezer. Quickly pour the Joconde batter over the design. Spread evenly to completely cover the pattern of the Décor paste.

    Bake at 475ºF /250ºC until the joconde bounces back when slightly pressed, approx. 15 minutes. You can bake it as is on the upside down pan. Yes, it is a very quick bake, so watch carefully.
    Cool. Do not leave too long, or you will have difficulty removing it from mat.
    Flip cooled cake on to a powdered sugared parchment paper. Remove silpat. Cake should be right side up, and pattern showing! (The powdered sugar helps the cake from sticking when cutting.)
    Preparing the MOLD for entremets:

    You can use any type of mold. I would suggest a springform pan, a trifle bowl, or any open-ended cylinder in whatever size you choose

    Start with a large piece of parchment paper laid on a very flat baking sheet. Then a large piece of cling wrap over the parchment paper. Place a spring form pan ring, with the base removed, over the cling wrap and pull the cling wrap tightly up on the outside of the mold. Line the inside of the ring with a curled piece of parchment paper overlapping top edge by ½ inch. CUT the parchment paper to the TOP OF THE MOLD. It will be easier to smooth the top of the cake.
    A biscuit cutter/ cookie cutter- using cling wrap pulled tightly as the base and the cling covering the outside of the mold, placed on a parchment lined very flat baking sheet. Line the inside with a curled piece of parchment paper overlapping.

    Cut PVC pipe from your local hardware store. Very cheap! These can be cut into any height you wish to make a mold. 2 to 3 inches is good. My store will cut them for me, ask an employee at your store. You can get several for matching individual desserts. Cling wrap and parchment line, as outlined above.

    Glass Trifle bowl. You will not have a free standing dessert, but you will have a nice pattern to see your joconde for this layered dessert.
    Preparing the Jaconde for Molding:

    Video: MUST WATCH THIS. This is a very good demo of the joconde and filling the entremets:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca4eLDok-4Q

    Trim the cake of any dark crispy edges. You should have a nice rectangle shape.
    Decide how thick you want your “Joconde wrapper”. Traditionally, it is ½ the height of your mold. This is done so more layers of the plated dessert can be shown. However, you can make it the full height.
    Once your height is measured, then you can cut the cake into equal strips, of height and length. (Use a very sharp paring knife and ruler.)

    Make sure your strips are cut cleanly and ends are cut perfectly straight. Press the cake strips inside of the mold, decorative side facing out. Once wrapped inside the mold, overlap your ends slightly. You want your Joconde to fit very tightly pressed up to the sides of the mold. Then gently push and press the ends to meet together to make a seamless cake. The cake is very flexible so you can push it into place. You can use more than one piece to “wrap “your mold, if one cut piece is not long enough.
    The mold is done, and ready to fill.
    *Note: If not ready to use. Lay cake kept whole or already cut into strips, on a flat surface, wrap in parchment and several layers of cling wrap and freeze.

    Entremet- Filling Options:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e1DsyDtcd0&feature=related

    It is nice to have a completed dessert so you can unmold and see the Joconde working. Fill with anything you desire. Layers of different flavors and textures! However, it needs to be something cold that will not fall apart when unmolded.

    Suggestions:
    Mousses, pastry creams, Bavarian creams, cheesecakes, puddings, curds, jams, cookie bases, more cake (bake off the remaining sponge and cut to layer inside), nuts, Dacquoise, fresh fruit, chocolates, gelee.

    18 January 2011

    Gingerbread with Caramel Sauce - and change....



    It's fairly obvious that I have been an absentee blogger lately, but I do have my reasons. Or excuses at least... The holiday season was a busy for hubby & I (like it is for 99.9% of the rest of the world), but then throw into the mix the preparations for a month-long trip through Europe and wrapping up parts of one life so that a new one can begin. You see, a little over a year ago, right around the time that I began this little blog of mine, I also reached the breaking point with certain parts of my life. Mainly, it boils down to location, location, location, but also, various parts of my life that this location impacts my life. So, my darling hubby & I have been preparing to make a major change, pack up the dogs and move to Europe! As you can imagine, preparing for a change like that takes up just a teeny bit of time.... anyway, while I still remain committed to this blog o' mine, and you, my loyal readers, I've also started a second blog. Journey for a Better Life will focus on my travels through Europe and our life-changing move, and all of the joys and headaches that will inevitably be a part of the process. Here at Always Leave Room for Dessert, however, the focus will remain my passion for FOOD!

    So, what have I been baking lately? Well, in all honesty, the Christmas season had me baking almost non-stop, but they were all treats you have read about before; Coconut Cake, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Nutella Biscotti, and Macarons-a-plenty. But I did return to an old favourite of mine for New Year's Day dinner with the in-laws, and that is my Gingerbread with Caramel Sauce.

    This is a lovely cake to serve at the end of a meal - even a big meal. It seems like it would be a heavy dessert, but it's really not, and it is wayyyy better than the overly sweet gingerbread cake desserts you see in some restaurants. This Gingerbread is moist and tender and has a lovely real-ginger flavour. Serve it warm, with a drizzle of rich caramel sauce and a spoonful of whipped cream, and you have yourself a perfect winter dessert. It's like coziness on a plate.

    Gingerbread with Caramel Sauce
    Serves 10-12
    Adapted from Cook's Illustrated

    Ingredients
    320 g (2 1/4 Cups) all-purpose flour
    1/2 tsp baking soda
    1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
    1 tsp cinnamon
    1/4 tsp ground cardamom
    3/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
    1/2 tsp ground cloves
    1/2 tsp ground allspice
    1 tsp cocoa powder
    40 g candied ginger, minced
    120 g unsalted butter, melted
    250 ml (3/4 Cup) molasses (choose one that's not too dark or bitter)
    150 g (3/4 Cup) granulated sugar
    1 large egg
    120ml (1/2 Cup) buttermilk
    120ml (1/2 Cup) whole milk


    Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350˚F. Prep a bundt pan with butter and flour, or with a non-stick baking spray.
    In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, and cocoa. Toss in the candied ginger and toss to combine
    In the bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add in the molasses, and mix well until combined, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Beat in egg until incorporated. Gradually add buttermilk and milk until combined.
    Add dry ingredients to liquid; beat on medium speed until batter is smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl with rubber spatula as needed. being careful not overmix. Scrape batter into prepare bundt pan, and distribute the batter evenly, using an off-set spatula.
    Bake until top springs back when lightly touched, 35-40 minutes.
    Transfer pan to wire cooling rack and let cool 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm, with a drizzle of caramel sauce and a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream.

    Caramel Sauce

    INGREDIENTS
    120 ml (1/2 Cup) water
    200 g (1 Cup) granulated sugar
    120 ml (1/2 Cup) heavy cream
    1/4 tsp kosher salt
    1/4 tsp vanilla extract
    15 g (1 Tbsp) unsalted butter, cold

    Directions
    Pour the water into a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan; add sugar to center of pot to keep granules from adhering to sides of pot. Bring to boil over high heat, covered. Uncover pot, insert candy thermometer, and continue to boil until syrup is thick and straw-colored, registering 300 degrees on candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; continue to cook until sugar is amber, and just barely begins to smoke - registers 350˚F on candy thermometer, about 5 minutes longer. Meanwhile, when temperature of syrup reaches 280˚F, bring cream and salt to simmer in small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Remove from heat and set aside until the sugar reaches 350˚F.
    Remove sugar syrup from heat. Pour about one quarter of hot cream into sugar syrup; let bubbling subside. Add remaining cream; let bubbling subside. Whisk gently until smooth; whisk in butter. Let cool until warm; serve.